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Thursday, 5 March 2015

Paris Fashion Week A/W 2015

Paris, the historical capital of fashion. I´m wondering if it still is...let´s find out!


March 3

Anthony Vacarello
Stars, stars, stars...but you don´t need to be a star to party in a Vacarello dress.




March 4

Dries Van Noten
To describe this collection I would say it has couture vibes, oriental inspiration, and, in the designers words, "It´s about passionate women".


Rochas
90 years of elegance were celebrated on this runway. And I celebrate the uneven dove prints. Why? because is an update of the classic elegance.



Alexis Mabille
Casual for the day, metallic for the night. That´s the aim, what they expect on a busty woman who opts for comfortable pieces.


Vionnet
Vionnet was known as a haute couture Parisian designer, and without doubt, that´s what could be seen on the runway. To be couture it doesn´t need to be extravagant, and this is the case.


H&M Studio
If you are looking for the moon, don´t look up, just go to H&M. That´s the worst introduction I´ve ever done! But it´s my way of explaining that the show location was inspired by the moon landing (which explains why Caroline de Maigret opening the show as a moon man). As regards the collection it´s what you see in H&M but 10 times better, and definitely ready to wear!



March 5

Sonia by Sonia Rykiel
Casual, rocker, for the carefree woman that dares to wear a biker jacket and a knitted mini dress. It´s casual...I´m running out of ideas.



Carven
I will start by saying I like it, I like it a lot. It feminine, original as regards this season, not so winterish (I don´t know if this exists, and if this is something good). I love the colours, the mini skirts, the high waists, and over all I love that it´s ready to wear, but at the same time unseen.


Barbara Biu
Gone with the wind on the BB runway. This dresses are a must from this season.


Paco Rabanne
I´m not sure about this collection, because as you can see, there´s not much to relate between my two favourite outfits. It´s the carefree informal jacket vs. the feminine transparent recycled dress. Still nice.



Balmain
One of the most expected shows of the season. It´s not because Olivier Rousteing works with A-list models, or because he dresses the polemical Kim Kardashian, I think that this time it´s definitely about the clothes. I must say I´m impressed. I love it that there´s a lot of colour and a lot of black at the same time. It´s intense, sparkling, but not rough, it has that thing that renown fashion houses show. Congrats!


Lanvin
Fringe is the common element, there´s no doubt about it. And I´m so unprofessional that because of my tiredness I´m going to stop here. The collection is a must see.



March 6

Loewe
A realistic futuristic collection with vibes from the 80´s. I like that all the outfits have something that calls your attention. Something colourful that stands up between the winter basics.


Issey Miyake
Point one, you won´t suffer in a minus 10 degrees weather. Point two, you won´t get bored in just black. Clear point.



Dior
This is not what you expect to see on a Dior runway, but the designer wanted to create something different. It´s feminine but "liberated, darker and more sexual" as said by Raf Simons. No doubt about it, but the question is, who will be the first one to wear those incredible loooooong boots? Only time will tell.


Isabel Marant
Like! It´s a little boho but just a little. I wouldn´t say the whole collection is inspired by it. I has a sent of everyday life. For example, raise your hand if you have a stripped shirt? I feel like it´s ready to wear, but with style.


Yohji Yamamoto
What can I tell you? If you are a fan of dark clothes and that, you´ll like it.


Maison Margiela
John Galliano was here! I must confess I´m his biggest fan, but I´m starting to understand that what he presents is art. Fashion is art. This dark, mainly violet, with some touches of colour here and there, on everyday outfits is original.
PS: do you think this shoes would clean my floor?


Balenciaga
WOW! Parisian elegance. elegance and more elegance. Don´t tell me you don´t remember of Holly Golightly from "Breakfast at Tiffanys". From the cuts, to the colours and the perfect embellishments, everything is perfect, and without doubt I say it´s an A+.



March 7

Elie Saab
When it comes to couture, Elie Saab is the king, but in ready to wear he´s not behind.


Vivienne Westwood
Well she´s an activist of the earth and in this case about men and women equality, that´s why clothes were inspired in unisex fashion.


Comes des Garcons
It´s your show, you can do it twice a year, people will talk about it, give them something to talk for six months.



Cacharel
Definition of ready to wear.


Acne Studios
Coolest one of the day! I see a little Parisian inspiration, some pop art as well. It´s interesting and I could do a further analysis, but I´ll leave that to you. (I would only take that nose piercing)


Nina Ricci
When we talk about Nina Ricci, the first thing that comes to your mind is elegance. And that seems to be what went through the designers mind when he started with this collection. I absolutely love it! It´s no boring, it´s has sequins... and it gets 10 points!



March 8

Kenzo
Desconstructured. Unproporcional. Knitting. And what are those? Fish scales?


Ungaro
Perfect for international womens day! I looooove it when designers incursion in tailoring, and specially when it´s not the typical YSL le Smoking. Thumbs up!


Celine
Oversized bags, crafty(?) vs minimal dresses, avoid the shoes please, and in the end you get a good result.


Chloe
I have a strong feeling of vintage. I´m getting used to the strong 70´s inspiration, but in my case, that I love it, I have no problem. I think that the Chloe girl is young, a hippie straight from the 70´s.


Zuhair Murad
Ready to wear or Haute Couture?


Galliano
I used to hate John Gallianos work, but I have nothing to criticise on this case, on the other hand, I really like it. This is what you can predict of a fashion show, the ideal colours for the upcoming season. I hope I´m not the only one thinking this way.


Givenchy
Clothes are on point, but I have to cover models face to appreciate them. I don´t know what´s wrong with putting normal make up and hair style on the models. Just...arghhhhhh!




March 9

Stella McCartney
Forget about the winter blues, it´s about white this season. In general I´ve noticed that many designers left behind the classic black this season, and Stella, being a neutral colours fan didn´t have many options, She nailed it with light colours! The collection also counts with some outfits in black, and in blue and green satin outfits. Let´s not forget the designers persistence with knitting that was more than present this season. Ready for winter?


Giambattista Valli
The designer presented a comfortable collection of blouses and wide loose trousers, with feminine touches of flower prints, and paillettes in a base of soft pink. As if it wasn´t enough, there were knee high boots... A little bit of everything,



Hermes
Very Hermes, very simple, but there´s this dress (half knit, half silk) that is driving me crazy...Good choice in colours to.


Sonia Rykiel
Take me back to future please! Velvet, suits, some transparences and mini skirts that give a different view to the collection (because you don´t always want to cover yourself in that suit).


Longchamp
Bags that match your outfit are back!


Saint Laurent
I was looking forward for this show since the last one, but even though the brands signature is present, it´s not the best I´ve seen on the runway. It looks a little cheap, and if you compare it with the spring summer collection (which I loved) you´ll see what I´m trying to say.


March 10

Chanel
Breakfast by Chanel. This season Karl Lagerfeld transformed the runway into "Brasserie Gabrielle" to give us something to talk (and something to eat for once to the models). As regards clothes, the tweed suits are always present, but it´s not the typical skirt and a blazer, now blazers are oversized and skirts touch the floor. As regards the seasonal it bag, it´s plates this season.



Agnes B.
Casual-chic. We could see a little bit of comfort, some landscape and the formal working girl section. Super thumbs up for this ready to wear collection.



Valentino
I have nothing to say about the clothes displayed on the runway, we had printed coats, transparent dresses, A LOT of black and white, this cool dragon, the lace collection in earth colours...but the thing everybody is talking about is Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson closing the show in their Zoolander characters. Crazyyyy!



Alexander McQueen
When I was younger I used to get scared by McQueen presentations, and now that I´m older and wiser, I simply skip the models faces. I must say clothes are nice, but you totally need a process to understand it.


Paul & Joe
A very french collection that screams ready to wear! I truly believe this is something that can be worn without any changes. We are not always able to say so, and in this case it deserves an applause.



March 11

Louis Vuitton
If you are a fan of a LV, you are going to like this collection designed by Nicholas Ghesquire. It has a rocker side, but also elegant dresses. What nobody talks about are the bags...



Moncler Gamme Rouge
Giambattista Valli was feeling British when he designed this collection, where rain boots, capes, tweed, quilt, whatever those hats are called... ready for the rain!


Miu Miu
Last show of the season! "Miu Miu is less thought than Prada" once said Miuccia Prada, but it looks as if it was the other way round. This collection has some inspiration by the Lady's back in the 60´s, 50´s or even before. It´s elegant, it´s colourful, it has BIG accessories (a trend that has been going around for quite a long time), and it mixes prints! Yes, animal print with quilt, and if they are different colours, better!



It was a nice fashion month, and I can´t wait to keep on updating you on the future events. I have so much fun doing it, and seeing that a lot of people read it makes me want to continue. Thank you and see you in 5 months!
PS: I´ll see you sooner, but not daily


xxx
Orne

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